In Latin America, the city of Buenos Aires is probably second to none in matters of food or drink. For as long as I’m here, this is my humble attempt at navigating through and documenting, its rich culinary landscape!
Granted, a lot of the early entries are centered in and around Palermo, but that’s where I work currently, and have lived close to for my first couple of months. Over the next few months, I hope to spread those red markers to many more barrios, starting with San Telmo 😉
For those looking for a more comprehensive food and beverage listing, consider Pick up the Fork and Gringo in Buenos Aires, both of which have provided me a lot of knowledge, inspiration, and an ever expanding wish list!
LAST UPDATE: 30th September 2016
Al Furat [EMPANADAS]
>> Uriarte 1266, Palermo
Empanadas Arabes says the sign at the window, and behind it works the sweetest lady (from Lebanon, I believe), who churns out some of my favorite Empanadas the city has to offer! The Carne is the one to get, served with a wedge of lime on the side and only 18 pesos to a piece. The dough she uses is reminiscent of Indian Naan! Needless to say, I’m addicted to this place – a weekly stop for sure!
Al Paso Salvador [PARILLA / GRILL]
>> El Salvador 5422, Palermo
This is possibly one of the few remaining hole-in-the-walls your likely to run into in Palermo, and as it turns out, they do a stellar job on the grill. Expect all the Argentine staples here, from Bondiola to Entraña, all of them done just right, and for not a lot of Pesos either!
Al Rayan [MIDDLE EASTERN]
>> Honduras 5638, Palermo
In my opinion, the best Beef Shawarma in town. Served with fries and a non-alcoholic beverage, its good value for money too. Their Tabouleh is fresh and flavorful as well, and they serve hot sauce on request.
Alice’s Tea House [CAFE]
>> Carlos Calvo 372, San Telmo
A discreet entrance just off Defensa makes this a well located cafe, but also one off the beaten path. You walk through a charming patio, into a lovely all-white space, split into multiple rooms, decorated with local art. A wide selection of teas (they offer free refills of hot water), scones and muffins to choose from. Reasonably priced, with friendly service. The kind of place you can idle away at for hours and no one will bother you.
BAB Cocina Coreana [KOREAN]
>> Felipe Vallese 3132, Flores
If your looking for Korean BBQ in BA, look no further! Between this establishment, Una Cancion Coreana and Tagi Mioni, you’ve got all your Korean cuisine needs covered. The trek out to Flores can seem intimidating at first, but you will be rewarded with an exceptionally authentic, high quality experience. 300 Pesos (on my last visit) gets you the prix fixe menu, including the BBQ, of course! An absolute steal! Tip: don’t get deceived by the residential exterior – you have, in fact, arrived at the right place!
Bangalore Pub & Curry House [GASTROPUB]
>> Humboldt 1416, Palermo
High-ceilinged interiors full of charm; a tiny old bar, a working fireplace; and a quaint elevator system to receive food from the kitchen that’s located upstairs! Good selection of beers on tap, including Czech representation in the form of Grambrinus (often sold out!). Haven’t tried any of their curries yet as I was only there for drinks, but in good time I’m sure.
Bar el Federal [BAR / RESTAURANT]
>> Carlos Calvo 599, San Telmo
One of the most storied amongst BAs “Bar Notables”, El Federal oozes history and character from every nook and cranny. Grab a seat along the exquisite old bar, order a Copa de Vino (a single serving of wine is enough to get you tipsy here) or choose amongst a selection of their home-brewed cervezas (the dark is fairly good), then sit back and soak it all in. Friendly staff, some of them English-speaking, and others who’ve been around for yonks. Apparently they do a hearty and inexpensive breakfast too!
Bar Plaza Dorrego [BAR / RESTAURANT]
>> Humberto Primo 424, San Telmo
Probably very little has changed at this corner establishment dating from the late 19th-century, from its original oak paneling to the beautiful chequered floor. The menu here does’t read like a thesis, thankfully, and service is fairly efficient. The Lomo sandwich and a glass of house wine are a safe bet here. Prices are a little steep but that’s to be expected given its location. A place full of character, and often, characters, its prefect for light reading, or to just sit back and watch as the world goes by.
Benaim [MIDDLE EASTERN / BEER GARDEN]
>> Gorriti 4015, Palermo
A lovely outdoor space, with communal tables and colorful murals, leads to a tiny kitchen area where you place your order. They have a small menu with Middle Eastern staples like Falafel and such, but also offer Pastrami sandwiches, a nod to their Israeli heritage. Brews from Siete Colores are available on tap, which makes this a good drinking destination too. Sadly, no hot sauce!
>> Humberto Primo 670, San Telmo
A deceptively tiny entrance gradually reveals a humungous space within – several distinct spaces in fact – including a patio in the middle. Excellent selection of beers – some of the best you’ll find in BA, in fact – and at a fair price too. The smaller servings have the added benefit of enabling one to try more, especially so during Happy Hour. An innovative food menu and high quality grub definitely qualifies this as a genuine gastropub.
>> Gorriti 4758, Palermo
One of the newest entrants to BA’s hopping “cerveza artesenal” scene, Bluedog is a cozy little spot, not nearly as crowded as On Tap, offering a smaller but equally respectable line up of craft beers. Sidewalk seating caters to the spillover crowd, and the wait at the bar is never too long. They have a small food menu too.
BONatural [LUNCH, Take away]
>> Bonpland 1516, Palermo
There’s always a line here at lunch time, and a fair amount of chaos within. But BONatural serves up a wide array of prepared foods, all of them fresh, of a very high quality, and very well priced. This take away joint also manages to change its menu ever so often, keeping it interesting.
Buenos Mares [SEAFOOD]
>> Av. Regimiento de Patricios 249, Barracas
In little known Barracas sits this charming Pescaderia (fishmonger) cum restaurant. Not only is the seafood here extremely fresh (and inexpensive), but you can also buy some to take home! Quality and freshness is guaranteed here, as they happen to be the suppliers to many top seafood eateries in the city!
Burger Joint [BURGERS]
>> Jorge Luis Borges 1776, Palermo
This has all the trappings of, well, a burger joint! A New York burger joint to be precise, cause that’s where the owner got his training apparently. The NY hangover is fairly evident across the graffiti-smeared walls, the dive bar music and even the inspiration for the simple menu (Mexican Burger, Jamaican and so on). The Burger itself is pretty good – definitely the best I’ve had in BA so far – as are the toppings. The fries, however, don’t travel well, unfortunately. It makes sense to eat in though, cause they also have a good line up of Ales on tap.
Café Retiro [CAFE]
>> Av. del Libertador 50, Retiro
Probably not the best place for your caffeine fix, but it definitely scores high on character! Set inside the Linea Mitre end of Retiro station, a building that dates from 1915, the cafe features high ornate ceiling, decadent chandeliers, and plenty of old-world charm. The promos aren’t half bad either – a trio of Medialunas and a Cafe con Leche (the safe bet here) will set you back only about 30-odd Pesos.
Café Rivas [CAFE]
>> Estados Unidos 302, San Telmo
This is a classy corner spot, perfect for a coffee meeting, some reading, or just to get away from the hustle of Defensa. Lots of old wood, high ceilings and two levels make up the inviting interior here. Service is efficient, the coffee is decent (they have a food menu as well), and prices are fairly reasonable.
Café San Juan [ARGENTINE, Modern]
>> San Juan 450, San Telmo
An inventive, modern take on Argentine cuisine, Cafe San Juan does manage to live up to all the hype. Some standouts for sure, like the Rabbit Paté, but expect a twist in flavor for almost everything you order. The waiter carrying around the oversized chalkboard menu is a little awkward, but at least the service is fast and friendly. Portions are substantial too. Does come with a bit of a price tag, but I suppose that goes with the hype. They have two locations in San Telmo, and I hear “La Cantina” is even better.
Café Tortoni [CAFE]
>> Av. de Mayo 825, Monserrat
Granted, the place is touristy, and the coffee is so-so, but it’s still worth a visit, if only to soak in the gorgeous interiors and a slice of history.
Camping [BEER GARDEN]
>> Av. Pueyrredón 2501, Recoleta
A great outdoor spot, perfect when contemplating a break, whilst walking around the touristy bits of Recoleta. Good selection of brews on tap (from brewery Siete Colores), fresh smoothies on order, and a small but well curated food menu.
Caral [LUNCH / Takeaway]
>> El Salvador 5102, Palermo
Its a mixed bag of offerings at Caral, but luckily the menu’s not too big. They do a decent Asian-style Wok (sans spice, unfortunately), but the real winners are their sandwiches, especially the Jamon del Pais and Chicharron de Cerdo. Decent prices and a good option for takeaway lunch in the neighborhood. Pro tip: If you’re looking for a cerveza at lunch, you’d be hard pressed to find any spot in the city selling Patagonia for less.
Cerviceria Nacional [GASTROPUB]
>> Arévalo 1588, Colegiales
A handful of brews on tap, but all of them top shelf; dozens more available in bottles, all sourced from micro-breweries in Argentina – you have to see their fridge to believe it! Add to that great Empanadas and a killer Bondiola special on Tuesdays! 60 pesos gets you 2 cervezas during Happy Hour – a steal for draft beer in BA! Super friendly staff too! What’s not to like about this place?
Chan Chan [PERUVIAN]
>> Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390
The sister restaurant to Rawa, and the first one opened by the owners, Chan Chan was somewhat instrumental in putting Peruvian cuisine on the BA food map. A colorful, no-frills restaurant, with a high turnover, they do a stellar job of the Ceviche platters as well as the Wok-style dishes Peru is known for. Service is quick and prices are still very reasonable.
Desnivel [ARGENTINE, Tradicional]
>> Defensa 855, San Telmo
I have fond memories of this old-school establishment, from my first visit to BA in ’08, and have every intention of returning there soon, now that I’m living in San Telmo. The food was great, as was the decor, and the waitstaff never short of character!
Don Julio [STEAKHOUSE]
>> Guatemala 4699, Palermo
Great corner location, attractive interiors, seasoned wait staff; a wine list that’s abundant, and some top quality steak. Essentially, everything one would expect from a traditional Argentine Steak House! Unless you go for lunch, reservations are almost impossible to come by, so expect a wait outside.
El Banco Rojo [ARGENTINE, Modern]
>> Bolivar 914, San Telmo
This is what one would call the perfect hipster spot for San Telmo, but its a lovable little one nonetheless. Their Tacos are great, they come in generous servings (3 Tortillas to an order) and the prices are reasonable too. Out of sheer curiosity, I once ordered the weekly special, Falafel Tacos, and they turned out really good! I’m told their sandwiches are good too, as is their Mexican salad, and that they serve spicy wings as well!
El Cisne Blanco [CHINESE]
>> Arribenos 2328, Belgrano
Its perfectly located (a block or two away from all the chaos), has sidewalk seating, lower prices (places in Barrio Chino tend to overcharge) and serves decent Chinese grub! Bonus points for providing patrons with genuine hot sauce. Service is efficient too.
El Muelle [SEAFOOD]
>> Avenida Costanera R. Obligado, Palermo
Go there for the ambience and location, stay for the seafood! That’s precisely as it turned out for me. This is definitely not your everyday kind of meal, but given that seafood is rare in this city, coupled with the location your at, the price your paying for such a meal is definitely worth it. Service is good, the quality of seafood is excellent, servings are generous and the views are plentiful.
El Rey del Chori [PARILLA / GRILL]
>> México and Defensa, San Telmo – SUNDAYS only
It’s heartening to know that San Telmo has two of the city’s best Choripan vendors. El Rey, however, only sets up shop on Sundays, adjacent to the Feria. His spacious outdoor location not only offers a good respite from the throngs of tourists, but more often than not, there’s live music to accompany your Choripan indulgence.
El Sanjuanino [ARGENTINE, Traditional]
>> Posadas 1515, Recoleta
Its known for for its Empanadas, amongst other things, and they do a really good job of them too! The dough is quite different from what you’d expect, and was a refreshing change for me. A bustling main dining room full of locals, and a quieter basement section below, their menu is typical of old-school Argentine establishments, and as would be expected, the servings are plentiful. The pastas here are a good bet too, if your venturing beyond just Empanadas. They have at least a couple of locations in the city but the Recoleta one seems to be the original, and thankfully they’re open on Sundays!
El Trapiche [ARGENTINE, Traditional]
>> Paraguay 5099, Palermo
Before Palermo got overly gentrified, this is possibly what would have been the quintessential neighborhood Parilla (grill). Thankfully, it still has a long list of regulars, and on the Friday night that I went there, every single table was taken, for what is essentially a humongous space! The menu here reads like a thesis but stick to the grilled meats and you’ll be fine. A lot of the waiters have been around forever and are happy to help you order, and to prevent you from over ordering as well! Prices are reasonable, the food is tasty, and servings are huge.
Enzo Gorlami Bar Cultural [BAR]
>> Balcarce 971, San Telmo
A relative newcomer on the San Telmo food and drink scene, Gorlami is a lovely laid back spot, with 3 separate high-ceilinged sections, including an enclosed patio (for smokers mainly); friendly staff, a good selection of brews, and a food menu too. Local musicians perform on certain days, which explains the cultural part of the name, and on other evenings you can always request the bar staff to play your choice of LP. They have plenty to choose from!
Floreria Atlántico [SPEAKEASY / TAPAS BAR]
>> Arroyo 872, Recoleta
A florist cum wine shop up front does a good job of masking the scene beneath. Those not in the know would be forgiven for walking right past. Below street level though, in the semi-circular basement, is a totally different vibe – a hopping bar scene set amidst beautiful decor, with mixologists crafting intriguing cocktails, and a fantastic selection of Tapas on order. Word about this speakeasy has gotten out quickly, so get there on the earlier side, if you want to secure a perch at the long bar.
Freud & Fahler [ARGENTINE, Modern]
>> José Antonio Cabrera 5300, Palermo
High-concept cuisine, a very creative menu, lovely minimalist space and good service. But it does come at a price and its cash only!
Fukuro Noodle Bar [RAMEN / ASIAN]
>> Costa Rica 5514, Palermo
BA’s first Ramen bar, set up by a DC expat, does live up to all its hype after all. The broth is hearty, the spice level is right, and the toppings flavorful. The menu is large enough to satisfy most palettes, and includes a good selection of Steamed Dumplings. Extra hot sauce is a standard offering here – always a plus in my BA book! Cute interiors too, and efficient service all around. The wait can be long though, closer to and on weekends.
Full City Coffee House [CAFE]
>> Thames 1535, Palermo
Another good coffee house in Palermo, on a quiet block along Thames. The baristas are friendly and will be glad to talk about the varietals of coffee they sell, all sourced from Colombia. This is also one of the most reasonable (a relative term when considering quality coffee in BA) places to buy ground beans for use at home. They also do a full English Breakfast or Colombian breakfast on weekends!
Funk & Deli [CAFE]
>> Peru 1092, San Telmo
The name, and the fact that they serve bagels, was a big draw to me! Funk & Deli hasn’t disappointed in the least. Their bagel sandwiches are varied and good; they serve decent coffee, and good craft beer too. WiFI is decent, if your looking to get some work done, and the place never gets too crowded or loud.
Genghis Mongolian Grill [ASIAN]
>> El Salvador 5090, Palermo
If your looking for a spicy Asian fix at down to earth prices, Genghis is your spot. 100-odd Pesos get you a generous serving of grilled veggies (plenty to choose from, including fresh Cilantro!) and a protein of choice, along with rice or noodles. Great option for takeaway in the neighborhood.
Gran Dabbang [INDIAN FUSION]
>> Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 1543, Palermo
I was drawn to this place simply by the name, and although they’ve played around with the spelling a bit, a couple of movie posters from the namesake Bollywood flick do adorn their walls proudly! The wait is excruciatingly long (granted I chose the wrong night to go) and the food can get a little pricey, especially if your eating alone. The Pakoras (seemingly the app of choice here) are a little overrated, but the curries are spot on, even though not up to my desired spice level. Friendly service, and plenty of seating options in a cosy, inviting space.
>> José Antonio Cabrera 5502, Palermo
Lovely corner location on a much quieter part of Palermo. Good selection of beers on tap, all the cocktail staples, and a great happy hour. A lovely rooftop backed by a colorful mural, and plenty of sidewalk seating too.
Heisenburger Lab [BURGERS]
>> Gorriti 5054, Palermo
You gotta love this place for the name alone (copyrights notwithstanding), and all the decor that goes with it. This popular eatery, with another location in the city, does a fairly decent burger too, with plenty of combinations to choose from.
Heladeria Cadore [HELADERIA / ICECREAM]
>> Av. Corrientes 1695, Centro
In a city full of great ice-creameries, its tough to stand out, but this age old institution manages to do just that, serving the theater crowds day in and day out. Pick any flavor, it’s hard to go wrong here!
Helado Tufic [HELADERIA / ICECREAM]
>> Guatemala 4597, Palermo
After Facturas, Helado (ice cream) might just be the most popular kind of treat you’ll find in BA! At Tufic’s sprawling corner location, you’ll have more flavors to choose from than you could possibly bargain for. 40 Pesos gets you 2 huge scoops, enough to feed at least 2 hungry individuals. And you might as well make a meal of the Mousse de Maracuya, its that good!
Hierba Buena [CAFE / GROCER]
>> Av. Caseros 454, San Telmo
A specialty grocer, bakery and cafe all rolled into one, Hierba Buena is a great concept, and a welcome addition to the barrio. The cafe part of it specializes in healthy foods, juices and such, whereas the grocery section has everything you could possibly need by way of preserves, dips, hand-made breads and condiments. Beautiful aesthetic all around, and sidewalk seating too.
Home Hotel [BAR]
>> Honduras 5860, Palermo
Not sure this place even has a name, but if you walk confidently past the lobby of this boutique hotel, you will emerge on to a gorgeous little poolside garden, complete with bar. Order a wine, beer or cocktail, and then sit back and take it all in. So serene is the setting, you will forget you were ever in a city!
>> Malabia 1401, Palermo
This pub occupies a lovely corner location, with plenty of outdoor seating, on their patio below and deck above. They have a good line up of tap beers too.
La Cabrera [PARILLA / STEAKHOUSE]
>> José Antonio Cabrera 5099, Palermo
You’ve probably come across this name on several “best steakhouse” lists and they’re not shy in flaunting it around either, but the food does speak for itself at this legendary parilla. They’ve expanded a bit by now, but the original location is still very inviting, intimate and classy. Service is excellent here (plenty of bilingual waiters in the mix), and when your done wiping clean your plate, it doesn’t necessarily set you back an arm and a leg. Oh, lest I forget the meat, its juicy, flavorful and perfectly cooked, with a variety of sides to dip into. Get the Bife de Chorizo (Sirloin) for sure.
La Carniceria [GRILL / SMOKEHOUSE]
>> Thames 2317, Palermo
The space is small, the menu is one of the smallest you’ll ever come across in this town (a big plus, in my book!), and the prices tend to be on the higher side, but absolutely nothing takes away from the utterly delicious food their kitchen churns out! Hands down, some of the best steak I’ve had in all of Argentina, thus far! This place also gets bonus points for having the most extensive line-up of hot sauces – who would have thought?! Great service too, with a bubbly drink on the house, while you wait!
La Fabrica del Taco [MEXICAN]
>> Gorriti 5062, Palermo
There are a handful of Mexican cocinas in Palermo, but I keep returning to LFDT! I love the colorful look of the place, the inviting outdoor seating, and their heaped open-faced Tacos, on a single tortilla grilled to perfection. The protein is high quality, and servings come with a choice of hot sauces – nothing that would make you sweat, but still! They do a solid Michelada too.
La Mar, Cebichería Peruana [SEAFOOD]
>> Arévalo 2024, Palermo
Chef Gastón Acurio’s latest La Mar offering came to BA about a year ago and has been all the rage since. Not for nothing though. A great location, with arguably one of the best patios in BA (that’s saying a lot!), excellent plates of Ceviche and a well curated drinks menu too. Two things to watch out for here – erratic service, and their bar running out of Pisco ever so often! Other than that, there’s very little to complain about.
La Poesía [ARGENTINE, Tradicional]
>> Chile 502, San Telmo
A century-old establishment, and one of BA’s “Bar Notables”, La Poesía is a beautiful old space, with decor that has probably changed little over the decades, and plenty of curios and memorabilia to keep you occupied between orders. Their Picadas (shareable plates) are really good, their servings in general are huge, and they also offer a trio of house-brewed beer. Service is relaxed but friendly, and prices are reasonable.
La Popular [ARGENTINE, Traditional]
>> Av. Caseros 500, San Telmo
On a stretch of Av.Caseros that’s fast becoming hip, La Popular has been around since the 1920s, and although considerably renovated since, its still something of a neighborhood hangout. Think large servings, strictly meant for sharing, and endless hours spent at a table, preferably out on the sidewalk. A humongous selection of Milanesas (they seem to specialize in it here) and all the other staples one would expect from a traditional Argentine menu. Service can be spotty and the prices are higher than one would expect, but the quality and quantity kind of make up for it. A large, light-filled and very lively dining room, if you choose to sit indoors.
La Puerta Roja [BAR]
>> Chacabuco 733, San Telmo
If you’ve walked past the insignificant-looking red door on Chacabuco, then you’ve missed out on La Puerta Roja! Walk through it though, and up the stairs, and you’ll find yourself in the middle of a hopping bar scene. It boats a very well-stocked bar, with a really good selection of beers on tap (most of them local), and a food menu too. It can get pretty loud in the central hall, by the bar, but there’s plenty of place to sit or stand by the windows overlooking the street, with most of the seating conducive to bigger groups. Their happy hour lasts from noon to 10 PM – go figure!
La Tenda [ITALIAN]
>> Thames 796, Villa Crespo
Only been here for lunch, and I haven’t tried any of their Italian specialties, but this was where I had my first meal after moving to BA and so it warrants a mention! That being said, the Pollo Panini I had was actually a really good sandwich, with a lovely side of roasted potatoes and a sunflower seed salad. All washed down with an Imperial cerveza, also my first! Nice corner location, friendly wait staff and decent prices.
Las Cabras [ARGENTINE, Modern]
>> Fitz Roy 1795, Palermo
A generously-sized, airy and bright dining space, with a real buzz at all times. And for good reason too – these guys do all the steak staples, as well as some stellar stews (Locros) and baked dishes (Pastel de Lomo is the one to get). Huge portions, well priced. Oh, and get their house lemonade for sure!
Las Pizarras [ARGENTINE, Modern]
>> Thames 2296, Palermo
A welcome addition to the food scene in Palermo, this French-Argentine Bistro features a menu that is constantly evolving, depending on the season and whats available in the market. The chalkboard menu includes an excellent wine list and delicious deserts. Save space for both! Every dish we’ve ordered here has been bold in flavor and inventive. Servings tend to be on the small side though, but are good for sharing, so order a couple more than you think you’ll need. Service is very good, and a lot of the waitstaff here is bilingual too.
>> Thames 1891, Palermo
Definitely one of the best cups of joe around, in a casual, light-filled setting. They sell coffee too, and on Sundays, they have Jacob outside selling Bagels!
Libros del Pasaje [BOOKSTORE / CAFE]
>> Thames 1762, Palermo
A beautifully-designed bookstore with a gem of a cafe in the rear. They do some really good sandwiches – cold and toasted – and have a good selection of beverages as well. The back room with the skylight has the best seats in the house, conducive to eating, reading, working, and hushed conversations too, if the occasion demands it.
Lo de Freddy [GRILL]
>> Carlos Calvo 471, San Telmo
This is the quintessential hole-in-the-wall, and one that’s absolutely essential to the very fabric of San Telmo! Freddy and team churn out some exceptionally good meat (sorry vegetarians but there’s absolutely nothing in here for you, save the bread) from an old-school grill. I’m still to go through everything on the menu (there isn’t a whole lot) but I can vouch for the Choripan already. The place is dotted with little notes and cards from visitors the world over, who went home completely satisfied!
Los Infernales [ARGENTINE, Contemporary]
>> Carlos Calvo 492, San Telmo
A nicely designed, light-filled space, with all the Argentine staples one would expect, except they come with a twist! A Choripan made with ostrich meat, Croquetas with crab meat, Panchos with rabbit meat and such. A concise menu, with a good selection of Cervezas to boot.
Magdalena’s Party [BAR / BRUNCH]
>> Thames 1795, Palermo
An expat-favorite, Magdalena’s Party is a lively, fun corner spot in Palermo, popular amongst the brunch set. The brunch menu here is as close to what you’d find in the US, including bottomless Mimosas and such. Definitely a good choice for weekend brunch with friends. They have a lovely shaded sidewalk seating area too.
Malvon [BRUNCH / BAKERY]
>> Serrano 789, Villa Crespo
Sidewalk seating (which is not saying much for BA!), a bakery section up front, a lovely old dining room, and at the back, one of the prettiest patios I’ve come across. They do a decent Eggs Benedict, so this is definitely a good brunch spot. A wonderful selection of baked goodies within (they sell quality bread too), with some of the best Alfajores I’ve eaten thus far! A neighborhood go to for sure.
Marcelo Dolce [ITALIAN / CAFE]
>> Av. Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Palermo
The cafe and restaurant at Museo MALBA is part of a high-end restaurant chain, and this is possibly one of their best venues. The indoor section is spacious and modern, but its really their patio that has all the charm. The pastas here, and their accompanying sauces, are home made and very good. Service is efficient too. A little pricey on the whole, but then you are paying for some people-watching as well!
>> Defensa 1338, San Telmo
This cozy spot along Defense is a great addition to the already thriving food scene in San Telmo, serving some of the most flavorful curries your likely to find in BA. They don’t claim to be an Indian restaurant in any way, so expect British-style curries here. Each one has a distinct flavor and packs a sufficient amount of heat. Servings are ample and prices are decent. Pickles and sides are of the highest quality too.
Miranda Parilla [ARGENTINE, Modern]
>> Costa Rica 5602, Palermo
This great corner location offers ample seating on the sidewalk, and a high-ceilinged, industrial-like space within. Service is efficient, the lunch deals are good, and food quality is up there. They do a solid Bondiola too. Good option for a sit-down lunch if your wandering around Palermo.
>> José Antonio Cabrera 5000, Palermo
This place is a godsend for BA! There’s not a whole lot else on the menu here to qualify it as Cajun, but the Fried Chicken alone is reason enough to dine here, and they do an exceptional job of it! None of the sauces accompanying it are hot enough for me, but the variety is impressive nonetheless. Wish the side of Cole Slaw could be bigger though – they make it with a twist and it’s some of the best I’ve had! Good selection of Cervezas on tap too! Oh, and it’s all reasonably priced as well.
On Tap [GASTROPUB]
>> Costa Rica 5527, Palermo
This place has got all the trappings of a contemporary NYC pub, complete with high ceilings, beer listings on the wall, and a crowd spilling on to the sidewalk. As it turns out, they have a great line up of brews too, across the beer spectrum. Their IPAs and Stouts are some of the best I’ve tried in BA. Run by the same owners as NOLA, they serve decent Fried Chicken too!
On Tap [GASTROPUB]
>> Av. Caseros 482, San Telmo
Same line up as the parent location in Palermo, just a lot less crowded and therefore a more enjoyable experience overall! Slight differences in the menu too, this one doing an excellent job of Chilli. The staff here is equally sociable and competent. Oh, and there’s free water “on tap” 🙂
Pain et Vin [CAFE / WINE BAR]
>> Gorriti 5132, Palermo
A lovely space with floor to ceiling windows, plenty of natural light, and a courtyard at the back for larger groups. The Israeli-Argentine husband and wife duo specialize in two thing; quality bread (which is terribly lacking in this city!) and wine. I can certainly vouch for the bread (country-style sourdough mostly), which I’ve had in their excellent sandwiches and taken home loaves of the same! The wine selection is humongous and all very reasonably priced as well. Apparently they serve good coffee too!
Pekín [EMPANADAS and PIZZAS]
>> Honduras 5303, Palermo
Can’t comment on the Pizzas here, but I’ll vouch for their Empanadas any day – they have a great selection, and do an excellent job of most. The Spinach, Lamb, Corn, and Spicy Beef have always been my favorites. Great option for takeaway.
Perón Perón Resto Bar [ARGENTINE, Traditional]
>> Ángel Justiniano Carranza 2225, Palermo
Part museum, part Peronista hangout, Perón Perón is a must visit for anyone in BA, if only to take in its kitschy interiors and walls full of memorabilia. They’re also known for their creatively named cocktails, and a traditional menu with all the Argy favorites. Standouts here are their Empanadas (Ossobuco, in particular) and their stews and pies. Service can be a little clumsy but the atmosphere more than makes up for it.
Pizzería Güerrin [PIZZERIA]
>> Av. Corrientes 1368, San Nicholas
This place is definitely not for the faint-hearted, but if you want the real Portenó Pizza experience, Guerrin is your spot. Navigate through its many levels and countless diners – its forever packed, but the wait’s never too long – and then settle in to your seat and order away. Despite being so Cheese-heavy (there’s enough on a Grande to last you a month) their Pizzas surprisingly don’t feel too greasy, and are flavorful too. If your ordering a couple of the smaller ones, try the Provolone and eggplant – its the bomb!
Pulpería Quilapán [ARGENTINE]
>> Defensa 1344, San Telmo
The Pulperia is the quintessential grocer or supply store in rural Argentina, which more often than not doubles as the local bar and restaurant. Pulpería Quilapán is a labor of love that seeks to recreate that very ambiance within the setting of a city. And no better barrio than San Telmo in which to to so. An exquisitely designed space, with plenty of vintage curios to keep one occupied for hours. Old-school bar in one corner, specialty grocer in another, cosy patio on one side, all within the walls of a beautifully restored old home. The food and drink options here hold up too – large servings, quality ingredients, good service, and all of it, reasonably priced.
Punto Letra [ARGENTINE, Modern]
>> Godoy Cruz 1554, Palermo
A really well designed space, with soothing pastel shades; a great selection of baked goods and juices (the Passion Fruit Limonada is rock solid); a very good Burger special on Fridays, and in general, always a good line up of Sandwiches, Salads and Tartas. They change their menu several times a week, so there’s always something new to try. One of the best lunch spots around, both in quality and value!
>> Av. Córdoba 447, Centro
Not the most pleasing interiors your likely to run into while in BA, nor the most professional service, but if you can get past that, Rawa churns out some yum Ceviche (accompanied by real hot sauce, no less), a solid Pisco Sour, and an amazing Lamb Stew! Extremely reasonable place too!
Salón Berlín [BARBER / COCKTAIL BAR]
>> Humboldt 1411, Palermo
Walked into this one quite by accident and was pleasantly surprised! A barber shop essentially, in a grand old setting, serving well-crafted cocktails from a bar in the center. Trims take place at a safe distance from your perch at the bar, but you could choose to get a haircut too if you like! Friendly staff, good music and a cool vibe. If it piques your interest, go there early – they’re a barber shop after all and they will close by 8 pm!
Sarkis [MIDDLE EASTERN]
>> Thames 1101, Villa Crespo
It’s been around for over two decades and may just be one of BA’s most popular restaurants! Despite the generously appointed dining room, the place is always packed, and if you get there past 8 PM, expect a long wait! Haven’t actually eaten in yet, but I’ve taken out from here twice and the food is great! Their Lamb kebabs are a must try, and they do a solid Tabouleh as well. Very reasonable prices and good servings.
Shanghai Dragon [PUB]
>> Aráoz 1197, Palermo
A buzzing corner bar, with lovely old interiors, and a decent selection on Tap for Happy Hour. It’s run by the same team that operates Bangalore Pub, but its got more space so never gets too crowded. Quite popular amongst the working crowd in Palermo.
Sheikob’s Bagels [BAGEL CART]
>> Thames 1891, Palermo – SUNDAYS only.
Jacob makes deliveries on Fridays and sets up shop outside Lattente on Sundays, serving up Bagels, cream cheese (both of which he makes himself) and Lox! This probably goes down as my single best find during my first month in BA!
Siamo nel Forno [PIZZERIA]
>> Costa Rica 5886, Palermo
Definitely the best Pizza in BA so far, although I’m yet to try San Paolo. An open kitchen, where a wood-fired oven occupies pride of place, churning out Neapolitan-style thin crust Pizzas, with high quality ingredients and toppings. Service is friendly and efficient and the prices are fair, for what is essentially a unique style of Pizza in this otherwise pie-obsessed city.
Sunae Asian Cantina [ASIAN]
>> Humboldt 1626, Palermo
Sunae started life as a Puerta Cerrada or closed door restaurant and has since evolved into a conventional dining venue, a bright and cheerful one at that. Service is excellent, the space is lovely, and the single-page menu is well curated, offering a good selection of staples from across Asia. This is by far the most authentic Asian food experience I’ve had in all of BA and it was a long time coming! On the pricey side for sure, but worth it if your looking for a quality Asian fix.
Tagi Mioni [KOREAN]
>> Campana 689, Flores
It doesn’t get more authentic than this, and its probably the only place in all of BA you’ll find KFC or Korean Fried Chicken! From the menu to the patrons, its all Korean here, including the TV set broadcasting a Korean channel! Servings are humongous so go with a friend or two or three! Some of the best spicy chicken wings I’ve had – nuff said!
Temple Bar [PUB]
>> Godoy Cruz 1853, Palermo
They have two more locations in the city, which I’m sure are equally popular, given the impressive line up (a rarity for BA) of brews on tap. The Palermo location is huge, with a pleasant courtyard, and two levels within. Its essentially a whole house! Their Cream Stout is a good one to try, and they have 2 for 1s on Happy Hour.
The Gibraltar [PUB]
>> Peru 895, San Telmo
Seemingly the go-to spot for expats in San Telmo, Gibraltar has all the trappings of an English Pub, complete with a back patio, pool table and such. Its quite a frenzy on weekends but the staff is fairly attentive and accommodating. Decent selection of brews on tap, a sizeable food menu (they do a fairly spicy green curry apparently!), popular hits from the 80s, and nice old interiors.
Una Canción Coreana [KOREAN]
>> Av. Carabobo 1549, Flores
Who would have thought, but there is a little K-Town in the not-so-desirable barrio of Flores! And given that I was taken there by a Korean, is testament enough for Una Canción Coreana. The food here is excellent, with some of the best Banchan I’ve had, and they don’t shy in topping that up either! Plates are meant to be shared; servings are substantial, and the pricing is very reasonable for the amount you’ll end up eating! And with all of that, you also get a very gracious hostess!
>> Soler 5862, Palermo
Located within the boutique Hotel Fierro, this is possibly one of the nicest brunch spots in BA, especially if you get seated in their lovely patio on a nice sunny day. A multi-course brunch menu, curated by an Irish chef, also includes a full Irish-style breakfast, a glass of bubbly and caffeine of choice. Their wine list is great and not too pricey for a hotel, so indulge in a bottle for sure. Prices are about right for the setting and standard of service you can expect there. If only the portions were a little bigger!