“One Zambia, One Nation” proclaimed the large sign on the highway leading south from Kenneth Kaunda International Airport. It was leftover from 2024, the year Zambia celebrated 60 years of its sovereignty. I was in Africa for my own milestone, and the Zambian capital was my first stop. With jacaranda-lined streets, and a mild climate, Lusaka was a lot more pleasant than I’d expected. It wasn’t particularly built up or congested either, and I was staying in a nice part of town too – along Church Road, at the Southern Sun Ridgeway – although I had really wanted to stay at The Pamodzi, a neighboring property, formerly run by India’s Taj group. I could always walk over and get a meal there at some point, I thought. The day ahead, in theory at least, was meant to be a relaxing one. But it was already filled with anxiety.

























