The Big 5 0 African Odyssey

“One Zambia, One Nation” proclaimed the large sign on the highway leading south from Kenneth Kaunda International Airport. It was leftover from 2024, the year Zambia celebrated 60 years of its sovereignty. I was in Africa for my own milestone, and the Zambian capital was my first stop. With jacaranda-lined streets, and a mild climate, Lusaka was a lot more pleasant than I’d expected. It wasn’t particularly built up or congested either, and I was staying in a nice part of town too – along Church Road, at the Southern Sun Ridgeway – although I had really wanted to stay at The Pamodzi, a neighboring property, formerly run by India’s Taj group. I could always walk over and get a meal there at some point, I thought. The day ahead, in theory at least, was meant to be a relaxing one. But it was already filled with anxiety.

Continue reading “The Big 5 0 African Odyssey”

Four days in Belgica, one Bier at a time

It took three distinct modes of transport to get there – including a pit stop to find a locker for my bags – but make it there I did. With an hour and change to spare. A long day that started in Lisbon, with the timing of my arrival in Belgium hardly coincidental – being the last operating day that week for the Brussels Tram Museum. Worth it? Absolutely. Up there amongst the best transport museums I’ve had the privilege of visiting, the museum boasts over a hundred trams; each one lovingly preserved, and most of them in working order. It was an outright treat. And getting there was half the fun.

Continue reading “Four days in Belgica, one Bier at a time”

Timur, Talgos, and a side of Non

Astana, the start of my 3380 km (2100-mile) adventure through Central Asia, is not a place most people would elect to visit. Largely devoid of history, monuments of note, and even semi-interesting topography, Astana has very little to offer relative to the many storied Silk Route towns and cities spread across the various Stans. It was certainly not my first choice of city to embark on such an endeavor from, but looking back, I’m more than glad I did.

Formerly known as Nur Sultan, and the present day capital of Kazakhstan, Astana is located in the north of the country, within a flat, semi-arid steppe. Astana strikes one as a very modern city at first, with a certain degree of Middle East envy. Architecturally, that translates to everything from the whimsical to the bizarre, with some internationally acclaimed talent thrown into the mix. But while Astana’s mostly futuristic aesthetic may not appeal to everyone, it is the sheer thought put into the layout and planning of the city that is hard to ignore. The parks, the landscaping, the riverfront, the generously sized boulevards, the integration of walking and biking into the streetscape – the Kazakhs have spared no effort in making Astana an incredibly pleasant city to wander through. They started with a blank canvas, sure, but like too many cities I know, didn’t squander that opportunity. And they did so for a city that has one of the most short-lived summers on the planet. I was mighty impressed.

Continue reading “Timur, Talgos, and a side of Non”

Taipei, Trains, and Towering Trees

Finding my way out of Taipei Main took a lot longer than expected. Not because there was any shortage of signs, but because I was constantly distracted by the number and sheer variety of eateries crammed into that station. And when you’re as hungry as I was, being spoiled for choice is not necessarily a good thing. Not to mention the massive FoMO that comes with it. Instead, I soldiered on to my hotel, walking past a corner Portuguese egg tart stand, and meters away, a family-run business hawking irresistible pepper buns. No matter what I’d end up eating that night, I knew I was in for a treat. Taiwan had already found a way to my heart.

Continue reading “Taipei, Trains, and Towering Trees”

The Ocean to Halifax

Thanksgiving Day ’24 and we’re off to a gloomy, wet start; the rain gradually turning to snow as we approach Albany-Rensselaer. Our leisurely halt there includes the customary locomotive swap, and by the time we pull away, there’s a full-blown snowstorm in the making – the season’s first, apparently. The mighty Hudson is crossed, and we get up to line speed eventually, but ~30-minutes later, in the middle of nowhere, we grind to a halt. The snow, meanwhile, showing no signs of abating. Back in the summer of ’09, I had attempted to take this very train from New York to Montreal, but my plans were thwarted by “track work north of Albany”, with Amtrak offering a sorry substitute for the onward journey, a bus. After all these years, surely I wasn’t out of luck again? The PA system finally comes alive and our conductor explains the hold up – there’s a lengthy freight train ahead of us, switching over to a siding to let us through. Twenty excruciating minutes after halting, we’re rolling north again. I breathe a sigh of relief.

Continue reading “The Ocean to Halifax”

Jamaica, in four perfect days

That sliver of land I’ve just spotted is in fact Cuba. Cabo Cruz on its southwestern tip, as the flight map confirms. With only 200-odd kms to go, we’ve begun our initial descent, and my choice of window seat has already paid off. Jamaica’s majestic Blue Mountains make up a third of the country’s landform and practically dominate the country’s eastern half. So far only the summits have been visible – some over 7000-ft high – but as we drop below the clouds, Kingston’s sprawl reveals itself. On what is undoubtedly a spectacular approach, we fly over its bustling harbor, then the airport itself, making a generous loop further east before eventually touching down at Norman Manley International.

Continue reading “Jamaica, in four perfect days”

The Reunification Express and other musings on Vietnam

Coming in from the relative calm of Chiang Mai, and the overall order and efficiency one had gotten used to in Thailand, I have to admit, my arrival in Ho Chi Minh City was a tad jarring. From the severely congested airport, to the chaos of evening rush hour, to the overwhelming number of two wheelers, it was all a bit much. By the end of my first evening though, I was a pro. Simply putting my hand out, without ever making eye contact, and crossing lane after lane of traffic with the confidence of a local. Everyone on two wheels – which is essentially all the traffic there is – would either slow down just enough or miraculously weave past me. There was an order to the madness after all – I just had to submit to it. And once I’d made it to the lively streetscape of Nguyen Hue Boulevard, with the splendid City Hall building on one end and the riverfront on the other, I was sold on Saigon.

Continue reading “The Reunification Express and other musings on Vietnam”

Scandinavia to Iberia, by Train

A Holiday Inn isn’t typically where I’d choose to stay, but in Helsinki it made perfect sense. It was centrally located, and provided a view like none other; winterscape as far as the eye could see, and trains – lots of them – within earshot. One such train whisked me into Helsinki Central Station from the airport in under 30-minutes, and once there, I could get to practically any part of the city on Helsinki’s excellent tram network, or for the heck of it, take a metro to Mellunmäki, the northernmost metro station in the world. Obviously, I did. Across the streets of Helsinki, Christmas decorations and festive lights persisted well into the New Year, as if to make up for all the gloominess. Of the many buildings I admired along the way, Saarinen’s Helsinki Central Station might have been my favorite. Home, amongst other things, to possibly the most attractive Burger King on the planet. The Oodi Library being a close second.

Daylight was limited and temperatures were frigid – as one might expect for the first half of January – but the Finns, everyone I interacted with in my short time there, were welcoming and friendly. It helped, of course, that most do speak English. The country actually has two official languages (the other being Swedish), a fact I was thoroughly ignorant about till my curiosity into the overwhelming presence of multilingual signs got the better of me. They drink copious amounts of coffee – more than anyone else on the planet, as it turns out – and often, that’s accompanied by an excellent selection of cinnamon rolls; a combination any self-respecting Nordic would subscribe to. And yet, somehow, the country felt culturally closer to Russia.

Continue reading “Scandinavia to Iberia, by Train”

2021: The travel year that almost took off

0525 am, an unearthly hour by any standard. Even more so if its a flight one has to catch. And that’s precisely how it went down for me on my first flight in 17-months. A journey that lasted less than an hour, from Burlington, Vermont to JFK. Fleeting as it was, being cocooned with a bunch of strangers – in varying states of mask compliance – within the cramped environs of a regional jet, felt entirely unnatural. Some six flights and a half year later, it still does.

Continue reading “2021: The travel year that almost took off”

Temples, Tuk Tuks and Longtails, in the time of Covid-19

Its surreal, almost irreverent, to be writing about travel at this time. And hard to believe that I was on the road only about a month ago. When I flew out at the end of February, there were no travel restrictions in place, and not a single confirmed case in all of NYC. When I returned on the 10th of March – to absolutely zero checks at JFK – confirmed cases in the area were in the double digits. From the 13th, we began working from home, in what was then only deemed a precautionary measure. The words lockdown and social-distancing had yet to make inroads in our collective lexicon.

For the few of us who made this trip – despite being warned by friends and family – it was a calculated risk all along, or so we thought. Not in our wildest imagination did we consider a scenario as dire as the one we’re all living through today. We were all incredibly lucky, in hindsight, to go through with our itinerary as planned, and return to our respective cities unscathed.

This is, no doubt, my last post for a while, but I eagerly look forward to the day when the world goes back to being the open and welcoming place its meant to be, and we can all make travel plans with confidence once again. Till then, I remain immensely grateful for the privilege accorded to me last month, and to be able to share those memories with all of you today.
Continue reading “Temples, Tuk Tuks and Longtails, in the time of Covid-19”