Coming in from the relative calm of Chiang Mai, and the overall order and efficiency one had gotten used to in Thailand, I have to admit, my arrival in Ho Chi Minh City was a tad jarring. From the severely congested airport, to the chaos of evening rush hour, to the overwhelming number of two wheelers, it was all a bit much. By the end of my first evening though, I was a pro. Simply putting my hand out, without ever making eye contact, and crossing lane after lane of traffic with the confidence of a local. Everyone on two wheels – which is essentially all the traffic there is – would either slow down just enough or miraculously weave past me. There was an order to the madness after all – I just had to submit to it. And once I’d made it to the lively streetscape of Nguyen Hue Boulevard, with the splendid City Hall building on one end and the riverfront on the other, I was sold on Saigon.


