The Ordinary Passenger to Mbeya

The “First Class Lounge” at Tazara’s Dar es Salaam terminus has certainly seen better days. Not every seat that’s empty is actually useable. The ceiling fans haven’t worked in a while, I’m guessing. A long queue forms for the only working power outlet. Broken blinds offer a glimpse of the platforms, where there’s no activity to speak of. It’s well past our 1350 departure time and a single announcement, barely audible, is made in Swahili. No one stirs. An hour or so passes, and gradually, porters begin filing onto the platform, with loaded carts in tow. After an unexplained delay of a little over two hours, we’re finally on our way to Mbeya.

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The Night Riviera to Penzance

In the world of engineering, there are few individuals as distinguished or prolific as Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Perhaps one of the greatest contributors to the Industrial Revolution, Brunel left his imprint on everything from bridges and tunnels, to shipping and railways, his rich legacy of innovation and design long outliving his rather short lifespan. Amongst his many great engineering feats, there are few that match the sheer utility or grandeur of London’s exquisite Paddington station. A cathedral of transportation, Paddington imparts a sense of occasion to the mundane act of departing or arriving.

Over the years, I’ve had the good fortune of patronizing Paddington several times, but tonight’s journey is different, momentous even. On platform 1 stands the Night Riviera, an overnight sleeper train, that in some form or another has been operated continuously by the Great Western Railway or GWR since 1877. It’s one of the last two sleeper services left in the UK, and the only one to have eluded me thus far. Tonight, I depart Paddington in style.

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