The Big 5 0 African Odyssey

“One Zambia, One Nation” proclaimed the large sign on the highway leading south from Kenneth Kaunda International Airport. It was leftover from 2024, the year Zambia celebrated 60 years of its sovereignty. I was in Africa for my own milestone, and the Zambian capital was my first stop. With jacaranda-lined streets, and a mild climate, Lusaka was a lot more pleasant than I’d expected. It wasn’t particularly built up or congested either, and I was staying in a nice part of town too – along Church Road, at the Southern Sun Ridgeway – although I had really wanted to stay at The Pamodzi, a neighboring property, formerly run by India’s Taj group. I could always walk over and get a meal there at some point, I thought. The day ahead, in theory at least, was meant to be a relaxing one. But it was already filled with anxiety.

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No Snoozing on Zanzibar

If Kholle House is anything to go by, I’m already smitten by Zanzibar. A ten-room boutique hotel today, the gorgeous property was built in 1860 by Princess Sayyidat Kholle, the daughter of the first Sultan of Zanzibar. With Swahili and French-Creole influences, Kholle House oozes charm in every nook and cranny, from its lush courtyard to its tasteful interiors. It is also, perhaps, a microcosm of everything Stone Town has to offer, and I couldn’t be more pleased with my decision to stay here.

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Pole Pole, to the summit we go

In the first half of October ’24, six of us friends took a giant leap of faith by attempting to summit Mount Kilimanjaro. What follows is a day by day account of our trek, which for many of us was the climb of a lifetime.

Asante Sana to guides Michael, Vincent, and Pascal. To the cooks, servers and the innumerable porters, who’s names we never even got to know. Without every single one of you, we could never have done it.

In memory of my Sister. A tribute to my maternal Grandfather.


Day 1: Machame Gate to Machame Camp

Twende Twende, Michael exclaims. We’ll pick up more than a smattering of Swahili by the end of our trek, but for now this is an important one. It’s our guide’s way of urging us to get a move on. It’s 1130 am local time and as we begin our hike, we leave the relative comforts of Machame Gate (5900 ft / 1800 m) behind. Ahead of us lies a magical canopy of ferns, lichens and clinging mosses; giant Camphorwood trees, and the occasional sighting of a Colobus Monkey. Through it all, seven grueling miles of a relentless uphill ascent. The Rainforest is the first of four distinct ecosystems we will experience over the course of our climb, and as beautiful as it is, we can hardly do it any justice; focussing instead on the drudgery of the first day’s incline, and the hours of walking that lie ahead. A break for lunch couldn’t be more welcome.

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The lure of the Cape

Welgelegen is Afrikaans for well-situated. Located in the Oranjezicht neighborhood of Cape Town is a namesake guest house, comprising all of 13 rooms, housed in two late 19th-century Victorian buildings. With Table Mountain visible right behind, it certainly lives up to its name. For me, its the perfect antidote to nearly 17-hours of flying.IMG_2799 Continue reading “The lure of the Cape”